David E. Steiner

Retired USAF, Teacher, Dad, Grandfather, Curmudgeon

Like what you see? Then be sure to visit the Allenspark Wind website here, and think about subscribing.

About Me:

You are here:

About Me/

Writing

Click on the links below to learn more...

Read My Latest Column

Rock Climbing

 

Rock climbing around here really got its start after World War II, if you don’t count things like my parents climbing the Little Matterhorn using a clothesline as a safety rope back in the 20s.

My brother was a hikemaster at the Y Camp in the 50s, and we risked our necks using 120 foot hemp ropes, war surplus ski boots and carabiners which are D shaped rings with a spring gate used to handle ropes, hand-hammered French pitons we bought from a guy in Boulder who sold equipment out of his basement. Fifteen years later, Holubar would sell out to North Face for a fancy price.

Using substantially more nerve than good sense, we climbed various rock faces in the area without knowing whether they were particularly easy or difficult. We just knew it could be climbed or it couldn’t.

But I haven’t done any of that kind of climbing in more than 30 years, so when a friend suggested an afternoon of rock climbing, I thought we’d just grab a rope and tennis shoes and go. It seems, however, that since I last climbed, things have become a bit more complicated.

First, we don’t wear our rock shoes anywhere but on the rock face itself. We carry our shoes to the climb. Our rope is now 50 meters long (165 feet) and comes in a rope bag. The rope is nylon has a braided cover and can easily handle an impact force of more than one ton. I had a seat harness, chalk bag and gear sling. Carabiners now come as D-shaped, locking, ultralight and bent-gate, and you cannot find pitons outside of mountaineering museums. Instead, we have various forms of protections, devices and “friends.” There are Sticht plates which are belaying devices to absorb the energy of a fall, ascenders, descenders, active (spring loaded) and passive camming devices: hexcentric chocks, stopper nuts, tri-cams, Metolius 4-cam units, and Hugh Banner Cobra Slide Nuts.

When I was young a simple bowline knot served for almost every purpose. Today we use Water knots and Figure Eights.

If all this sounds more complicated, you should know that it’s also much safer, mostly as a result of our generally litigious society. Thirty years ago we bought our ropes and pitons and if the rope broke or the piton didn’t stay in the rock we figured it was pretty much our own fault. Today, of course, the manufacturer is sure to be sued, so the equipment is much, much better. Also much, much more expensive.

All American climbs are now graded as to difficulty, and rock climbs are classified using the Yosemite Decimal System from 5.0 to 5.14, depending on who’s doing the rating. The climb we did, parts of which were 5.6, was just moderately difficult, which is nice, because I’m about moderately skilled, moderately old, and moderately scared. Fortunately, my climbing partner was a world-class mountaineer who has led climbs in the Himalayas and around the world, so I was quite literally in good hands as I used parts of my body I had forgotten I had to gain a purchase on the rock face.

When we reached the top we rappelled down, which is to say, slid down the face on a rope. In the old days this trick was accomplished by passing the rope between one’s legs, around the back and over a shoulder. I almost always wound up with a rope burn on my neck. Today it’s done with one of a number of rappelling devices which make this aspect of climbing safer and more fun.

While we were climbing we were surrounded by “hang doggers.” These are young people who hang on ropes secured from above to find routes on particularly difficult rock faces. Regarded as cheating by some climbers, this technique results in some climbs being made rather easily which would otherwise be nearly impossible. My partner derided the practice as contrary to real mountaineering.

So how sore and banged up am I? Well, pretty sore and banged up. I found that age has robbed me of endurance, strength and flexibility, but other than that, I’m in pretty good shape.

So am I going to do it again? Well, I’m looking at some pretty nice Dolomite Magica Rock shoes with a full length sticky rubber sole, cut-away uppers, good lateral reinforcement and Cambrelle nylon linings…

 

 

Columns

© 1985 – 2003, David E. Steiner

Allenspark Wind Columns:

Introduction

Why Allenspark?

Going Riding [August, 1985]

Electricity

Used Cars

Peace and Quiet [1986]

Liberals & Conservatives

Going to the Movies

The Screened Porch

The Beginning of The Season

The Weather

The Hilltop Guild Bazaar

The End of The Season

The Gift of Time

The Beavers

Addresses [1987]

Hiking

Watching the Trees Grow

Postal Rates

Changes in Estes Park

Square Dancing at the Pow Wow

Back to the Hilltop Guild Bazaar

The Solstices

Bird Feeders

Elevators

The Estes Park Hardware Store [1988]

Visitors

Limousine Service

A Memorial Service

A Hummingbird

Garbage

A Hiking Trip

The Estes Park Public Library

Wild Life

Riparian Rights [1989]

Weather

Fences

Commuting

Mountain Friendliness

A Motorcycle Trip

Satellite Television

“Weaving Mountain Memories”

Hotel Rates in the Old Days

The Price of Propane [1990]

The Front Range Almanac

June

Modes of Transportation

Miller Moths

My 50th Column

Modern Conveniences

Rock Climbing

On the Death of Otto Walter, Postmaster

Otto’s Memorial Service

A Big Owl Pot-Luck Dinner

A Whine About Telephone Service [1991]

After the Persian Gulf War

Some Changes in the WIND

The Trip to the Mountains

The Mountains in the Summer

Visitors

Of Dogs, Music, and Children

Muhlenburg County

To My Grandson

The Sale of Longs Peak Inn

World War II  [1992]

Murphy’s Law and the Computer

The South St. Vrain Canyon

“Whiteout”

The Hazards of Volunteering

Crime in Our Valley

Infestations

On the Death of Charles Eagle Plume

Can We All Get Along?

A Partridge in a Pear Tree

Lost Horizon [1993]

Walking

Rumors About a Visit by the Pope

Progress?

More About Fences

Woodpeckers

The Visit of Pope John Paul II

Forest Fires

The New Sewage System

The Snow Pool

The Good Old Days [1994]

The WIND’s 20th Anniversary

The Bunce School

The Shooting Gallery

The Estes Park Museum

Our Government

U.S. West Takes a Hit

The Year of the Hummingbirds

A New “Yield” Sign

Growth in Allenspark

Private Telephones?

The Salvation Army

Creation Science [1995]

Devolutionizing Big Government

Risks

Airports

Fort D.A. Russell

Domestic Terrorism

Old and New

Barney Graves

Life in the Wilderness

What’s In a Name?

Arthur C. Clarke

 

The Estes Park Trail-Gazette Columns:

July 1983

Carpentry

Estes Cone

Johnny Grant

Observations in Estes Park

The Bath House

Waving

The Sutherland’s Ice House

How Old is Charles Eagle Plume?

Dogs

Christmas Trees

Tree Murder

Mountain Driving

Garbage

Mail Boxes

More About Mail Boxes

“Are you related to ....?”

Spring

An Accident

The Wild Cat

A July Reunion

A Visit to Baldpate Inn

Opening Cabins

Summer

The Times, They Have Changed

Death and Transfiguration

The Population Explosion

The March of Time

Faith-Based Social Services

Looking for Pitch

Recent Writings I

Recent Writings II

Recent Writings III

Recent Writings IV

Recent Writings V

Recent Writings VI

 

 

Jump to these pages

Contact me

 

Did you find a factual error or a typo or want to voice an opinion? Drop me a note here

 

Home

About Me

Contact